Let’s talk about Rombauer Chardonnay, one of the most beloved wines across the nation, known for “celebrating the joy of wine.” They even print it onto their corks. The tagline originated from the founder’s aunt, Irma Rombauer, who penned the internationally renowned cookbook, “The Joy of Cooking.” I think we all have a copy floating around our house. Rombauer Vineyards sprouted its first vines in 1980 and released their inaugural Chardonnay in 1984, just two years after Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay made its market debut. Rombauer and Kendall-Jackson made a lasting impression on the world by shaping the very style that would define California Chardonnay for decades. Today, Rombauer Vineyards crafts approximately 175,000 cases of this celebrated Chardonnay annually.
‘The Joy of Wine’
I wholeheartedly concur with this sentiment, but I’d hate to see wine enthusiasts confined to the Rombauer rut. Life is far too short to limit our celebrations to a single brand. While Rombauer’s Chardonnay is renowned for its buttery richness, it’s important to remember that Chardonnay is as versatile as clay in the hands of a winemaker. Their choices throughout the winemaking process significantly impact the final product. Depending on factors such as vineyard location, grape harvest timing, and post-harvest treatment, the wine’s characteristics vary widely. Buttery Chardonnay, for instance, typically undergoes malolactic fermentation, is aged in new oak barrels, and is subject to lees stirring.
Now, you might wonder, what’s all that jargon about?
Malolactic Fermentation
Malolactic fermentation, or MLF for short, is the process by which harsh malic acid turns into softer lactic acid. In simple terms, it transforms sharp, apple-like acidity into a smoother, milk-like one. Think of that brisk bite into a green apple; you won’t find it in a buttery Chardonnay, but you can in those that skip the malolactic fermentation. In the industry, we often abbreviate it to MLF or just “malo.” So if someone mentions that a wine goes through 100% malo and then ages in new French oak barrels, and you’re a fan of buttery Chardonnay, you’re likely to adore that wine.
Barrel Aging
Barrel aging is a common practice we’ve all seen, with towering stacks of wine barrels nestled in cellars worldwide. These barrels are charred on the inside and used to age wine. The charred interior serves as a filter, extracting undesirable flavors while infusing subtle notes of vanilla and caramel. American and French oak barrels exhibit distinct characteristics; American barrels impart hints of dill, coconut, and vanillin (imagine the aroma of baked goods in a grocery store), while French barrels offer more nuanced notes like vanilla, spice, and cream. The first year of aging is when the barrel has the most influence, and by year four, the wood’s impact is minimal. These barrels are often repurposed for furniture, decor, or sold to Scotch whiskey distilleries.
Battonage
Lees stirring, sometimes referred to as “battonage,” involves agitating the yeast that has settled at the bottom of the barrels during aging. The more contact the wine has with the yeast, the creamier its texture becomes. In blind tastings, sommeliers often detect notes of sourdough bread or Greek yogurt, with the wine’s body taking on a more substantial and creamy character.
So, if you or a fellow wine lover find yourselves frequently reaching for the blue and white-labeled Rombauer bottle, it’s time to try something new! These wines we’ve gathered are equally creamy and rich. deserving of their own celebration.
Details:
If you are stuck at the grocery and need something in a pinch- try the Arsonist Chardonnay– an under $20 option.
Cheers,
PS
If you just can’t resist Rombauer, we do have a special running for the rest of the year. A case of twelve bottles for $500 plus taxes- delivered to your door. Email us to set a delivery date.
Grape Escape: Bordeaux Basics
Bordeaux, a name synonymous with lavish indulgence in a glass, often proves intimidating to wine enthusiasts. Given its vast complexity, it’s completely understandable. With 53 appellations and 65 different wine styles, understanding Bordeaux depends greatly on knowledge of its’ sub-regions and chateaus. But I’m here to help.
The Region Situated 350 miles southwest of Paris along the Atlantic coastline in France. Bordeaux has been home to a thriving wine industry for hundreds of years with the port and easy access to rivers. These river divide the region neatly in two pieces with very different personalities.
The Right Bank The Right Bank comprises twelve sub-regions, collectively referred to as the Libournais. The two most renowned among them are Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. The soils have a lot of clay, with a limestone surface which Merlot thrives on. The wines overall tend to be richer in fruit with lower acidity and tannins. Cabernet Franc gives structure to the lush Merlot.
Pomerol is expensive. No bones about it. The top dog wine here is Chateau Petrus, whose bottles regularly sell for thousands of dollars. The wines are often referred to as ‘an iron fist in a velvet glove’; they are massive wines with silky smooth tannins. Saint-Émilion is a slightly larger region with a more approachable price point with high quality wines.
The Left Bank Also known as the Medoc, the Left Bank encompasses nine subregions. Notable among these are Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien, and Margaux. Historically marshland, the Dutch filled this region with gravel during the 1600s. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc thrives here, resulting in wines with a robust structure and higher tannin levels.
If you are just starting to explore Bordeaux, start with Saint-Julien. The wines have a lot of dark chocolate and cherry- similar to Napa Cabernets. Margaux wines tend to be more floral with lots of rose petals and violets. Pauillac wines have a signature of dusty, cocoa powder and tannic structure. Saint-Estephe tends to be very structured, modern trends have lend to the addition of more Merlot in the blend making the wines approachable earlier. They tend to be based in Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc supported by the other Bordeaux varietals so don’t let the foreign names make you uneasy.
Grapes Bordeaux wines are all about blends. Winemakers skillfully utilize the unique characteristics of different grapes to craft well-balanced wines and hedge against risks. Given Bordeaux’s coastal location, weather conditions can be unpredictable. The potential risk of crop damage due to hail or frosts is mitigated by having grapes that bloom and ripen at different times.
White Grapes
Semillon
Sauvignon Blanc
Muscadelle
Red Grapes
Merlot
Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Franc
Petit Verdot
Carmenere (Rare)
Malbec (Rare)
Trick: To remember the dominant grapes on the Left and Right banks of Bordeaux. Hold up your hands. Curve your left hand into a ‘C’ and make an ‘M’ with your right hand. Cabernet Sauvignon on the Left Bank, and Merlot dominates the Right Bank.
Aged Bordeaux versus Young Bordeaux
There is no right or wrong way to enjoy your wine. You may love the spicy, chew and earthy character of younger Bordeaux. Or you may want your wine to mellow first.
Aged Bordeaux- over ten years old will be richer, with earthy, coffee-toffee notes. Fruits will take on a dried character (so instead of smelling like plums, the wine may have a prune note) and the tobacco, cedar note will become more prominent.
If you are trying to decide if you should age your wine or not- consider the price point and the classification level.
What the heck are classifications?
There are five systems in places currently that all cover different sets of chateau. The two most important for us are the 1855 and the Saint-Emilion classifications.
In 1855 France was hosting the World Fair and Napoleon III was king.The king wanted a system to determine and showcase the best wines, a ranking system. So, he tasked the Agricultural department, who turned to the Chamber of Commerce in Bordeaux for help. The Chamber, in a bit of a dilemma and keen not to offend anyone, simply took the existing price list and published it.
Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac (elevated to First Growth in 1973)
Second Growths (Deuxièmes Crus)
Château Brane-Cantenac, Cantenac
Château Cos d’Estournel, Saint-Estèphe
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien
Château Durfort-Vivens, Margaux
Château Gruaud-Larose, Saint-Julien
Château Lascombes, Margaux
Château Léoville-Barton, Saint-Julien
Château Léoville-Las-Cases, Saint-Julien
Château Léoville-Poyferré, Saint-Julien
Château Montrose, Saint-Estèphe
Château Pichon Longueville Baron, Pauillac
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac
Third Growths (Troisièmes Crus)
Château Cantenac-Brown, Cantenac
Château Giscours, Margaux
Château Kirwan, Margaux
Château Lafitte Rothschild Carruades, Pauillac
Château Palmer, Margaux
Château Rauzan-Gassies, Margaux
Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux
Fourth Growths (Quatrièmes Crus)
Château Beychevelle, Saint-Julien
Château Branaire-Ducru, Saint-Julien
Château Cantenac Brown, Cantenac
Château Ducru, Saint-Julien
Château Lagrange, Saint-Julien
Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan
Château Langoa Barton, Saint-Julien
Château Marquis d’Alesme Becker, Margaux
Château Marquis de Terme, Margaux
Château Montrose, Saint-Estèphe
Château Paveil de Luze, Saint-Julien
Château Talbot, Saint-Julien
Fifth Growths (Cinquièmes Crus)
Château d’Armailhac, Pauillac
Château Batailley, Pauillac
Château Belgrave, Haut-Médoc
Château Beychevelle, Saint-Julien
Château Branaire-Ducru, Saint-Julien
Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc
Château Cos Labory, Saint-Estèphe
Château Dauzac, Margaux
Château Duhart-Milon, Pauillac
Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Julien
Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac
Totals are :
5 Premiers Crus (First Growth)
14 Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growth)
14 Troisièmes Crus (Third Growth)
10 Quatrièmes Crus (Fourth Growth)
18 Cinquièmes Crus (Fifth Growth)
Surprisingly, these rankings have stood the test of time quite well, considering their unconventional, and rather unscientific origins. The idea was simple: the very best wines were ‘First Growths,’ followed by ‘Second Growths,’ and so on for a total of five quality levels. Given that the quality of Bordeaux wines is intricately tied to their location, their quality has only improved over time with new techniques and sciences being applied.
But remember, you don’t need to drink First Growth wines to enjoy Bordeaux. There are wonderful chateaus established after 1855 that deserve to be appreciated, despite not having a historic rating. Often the wineries outside of the 1855 Medoc Classification are referred to as ‘Petit Chateau.’
As for Saint-Émilion, it wasn’t part of the initial 1855 Classification. In fact, it took matters into its own hands and established a classification in 1954. The Saint-Émilion classification undergoes a revision every ten years. However, any alterations to the list are met with extreme controversy and discussions since movement greatly affects wine prices and company valuations.
Premier Grand Cru Classé A
Château Angélus
Château Ausone
Château Cheval Blanc
Château Pavie
Premier Grand Cru Classé B
Château Beau-Séjour (héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse)
Château Beau-Séjour-Bécot
Château Bél Air-Monange
Château Canon
Château Canon la Gaffelière
Château Figeac
Clos Fourtet
Château la Gaffelière
Château Larcis Ducasse
La Mondotte
Château Pavie Macquin
Château Troplong Mondot
Château Trottevieille
Château Valandraud
Grand Cru Classé
(71 Properties)
Wine Futures? En Primeur? What’s That?
The practice of purchasing wine for future enjoyment has been a fundamental aspect of Bordeaux’s market model since the 1700s. Back then, clients would sample a young wine, make a commitment to buy, and the chateau would age the wine before delivering it. Early buyers enjoyed a lower price for taking the risk before the wine matured. An iconic example is the 1982 ‘En Primeur’ purchase, where buyers acquired what many consider the best vintage from Bordeaux at significantly lower costs. Robert Parker’s early declaration of confidence in the quality of that vintage is what put him, and the rating system on the map.
Today, ‘En Primeur’ is a weeklong event in Bordeaux, featuring numerous Chateaus presenting their young wines to entice consumers, collectors, and retailers into investing in cases before the wines fully mature.
However, modern shifts in the world have seen many prominent Chateaus stepping back from En Primeur sales.
Second Labels
Many wineries may have a second, or even a third label. Personally it is one of my favorite way to shop. The first label is going to be the best of the best fruit- and priced accordingly. The second label is made by the same winemaker, with fruit grown the same way from the same vineyards, but often from younger vines. Prices maybe be half of the first label!
How do I Get Good Bordeaux?
You can dedicate time to research, or you can let us do the legwork and discover exceptional options for you.
Only poured at one public tasting a year, The World of Pinot Noir. No tasting room. Almost no presence in restaurants. Sea Smoke is elusive, mysterious and sexy.
The 105 acre winery is located along the Santa Ynez River in Santa Barbara County, California. The wines are grown biodynamically, and only estate fruit goes into the bottling. Sea Smoke produces four labels, totaling 13,000 cases for global supply. They produce a sparkling wine called Sea Spray, as well as two Pinot Noir (Southing and Ten) bottling and a Chardonnay. Southing is more delicate while the Ten is heavier and more brooding.
Sea Smoke produces four labels, amounting to a total of 13,000 cases for the global market. However, only a fraction of these cases reach retailers and restaurants, as their primary focus is on their mailing list. ‘The List’ is free to join and doesn’t require any purchases. Moreover, there’s no guarantee that you’ll be offered any wine, but it’s definitely worth a shot.
Unfortunately, I can’t get any of this beautiful wine for you. But I can offer you several wines that are similar, from neighboring vineyards and made by other winemakers with similar styles.
The following wines are from Satnta Barbara, like Sea Smoke, and share similar characteristics, influenced by the same ocean fog that lends Sea Smoke its name. Typically, mountains run parallel to the coastline, shielding inland valleys from the Pacific Ocean’s cooling winds, fog, and marine layer. However, in Santa Barbara County, the mountains closest to the coast run from East to West, perpendicular to the shore. The ‘transverse’ mountain ranges, and the valleys between them act as funnels, channeling cold air, fog, and the marine layer. Consequently, Santa Barbara County houses one of the most southerly ‘cool climate’ wine regions in the Northern Hemisphere.
With Halloween right around the corner, and pumpkin spice in the air, indulge in the spirit of the season with Grape Lady Juice Boxes. Our thoughtfully curated selection of wines is a perfect match for the cozy and celebratory vibes of this time of year. Whether you are unwinding after a long day or toasting to life’s small triumphs, let our wines enhance every moment.
Get ahead of the game, skip the last-minute wine aisle dash, and embrace the ease of Grape Lady Juice Boxes—a stress-free, wine-filled October awaits!
The Classic Box:
This tier is designed for those seeking exceptional quality at an accessible price point. Expect a collection of hand-picked wines ranging from $25 to $40 per bottle. It’s the ideal choice for everyday enjoyment and discovering hidden gems. If you drink J. Lohr Cabernets and Meiomi Pinot Noir at home- this is your tier.
Our most popular box. Elevate your wine experience with our Curated Box, carefully curated to deliver a touch of luxury to your palate. This tier features a selection of Bordeaux wines and hand-picked gems from the Connoisseur’s Box. With bottles ranging from $40 to $75 each, you’ll indulge in wines that showcase elegance and sophistication. If you have an open bottle of Rombauer Chardonnay in your fridge- this is your box.
For the true wine connoisseur, our Connoisseur’s Box is a haven of exceptional, limited-production wines. Immerse yourself in the world of premium vintages, carefully selected from renowned vineyards. With bottles ranging from $75 to $100 each, this tier promises an extraordinary tasting experience that will leave a lasting impression. For my lovers of Caymus and Opus- Let me show you a few new things.
Twenty-seven times smaller than the state of Texas, the island of Sicily is nestled between the Tyrrhenian and Mediterranean Seas. As a wine region, it boasts the most acres under vine, surpassing Piedmont and Tuscany. With a winemaking tradition dating back over 6,000 years, preceding even the Greeks and Romans, it holds the title of the oldest winemaking tradition in Italy by over 3,000 years. Mythology claims it as the home of the grapevine, while history labels it the home of the Mafia. However, many wine lovers have never even heard of Sicilian wines.
Fun Facts:
In the Iliad, Odysseus used the local Sicilian wine to intoxicate the Cyclops, enabling his crew’s escape. The boulders strewn along the coastline are supposedly the ones that the Cyclops hurled after the departing ship.
Palermo’s Falcone-Borsellino Airport is named after the two anti-Mafia judges murdered in 1992.
Pied frau is a term for ungrafted grapevines that thrive on the island.
Mount Eta, is supposedly the home of Vulcan, the Roman god of fire and smithery.
Mount Etna is three times larger than Mount Vesuvius.
Historical Roots:
Given Sicily’s status as an island situated off the coast of Italy and its richness in natural resources, it was a constant target for invasion. Greeks, Romans, Germans, Normans, Muslims, Vikings—the region was almost always at war until the unification of Italy in the late 19th century. Interestingly, the rise of the unified Italian state and sudden peace didn’t bring immediate prosperity to the island. The existing infrastructure couldn’t handle the attempts of the poor and unemployed to steal from the wealthy landowners’ agricultural endeavors that constituted much of the economy. Landowners, realizing the local police wouldn’t help, brought in their own police force, often made up of criminals. These groups, for a fee, would protect businesses and became known as Cosa Nostra, or the Mafia.
World War II was devastating for the island and the Mafia. During a visit to Sicily in May 1924, Mussolini, the prime minister, passed through Piana dei Greci, where he was received by mayor/Mafia boss Francesco Cuccia. Cuccia, expressing surprise at Mussolini’s police escort, whispered, “You are with me, you are under my protection. What do you need all these cops for?”. Mussolini rejected Cuccia’s offer of protection, and in return, Cuccia told the townspeople not to attend his rally, leaving Mussolini facing a nearly empty room. Once he came to power, he did everything in his power to wipe out the Mafia—killing thousands without trial.
With 18 airbases, Sicily was often bombed during the war, killing civilians, destroying properties, and vineyards. Viticulture had been centered on mass production, with much of the wine being exported to France and other regions of Italy to bulk up production and give weight to blends. As power centralized and rules governing wine production became stricter post-WWII, the viticultural economy of Sicily tanked. Marsala, which for centuries had supported the island, fell out of favor; the demand for cheap bulk wine decreased, and many vineyards were abandoned or pulled up in favor of other agricultural endeavors. Sicilian viticulture was reborn in the late 1990s and 2000s when growers like COS pushed for quality over quantity.
Today:
Today, the island has dedicated itself to quality winemaking. Over 34% of the vineyards are organic, and the island places great importance on sustainable agriculture. When you’re working on an island, it’s crucial not to ruin any portion of it. There are currently more white grapes planted than red, many of which are holdovers from the days when Marsala production dominated the viticultural landscape. Grillo, a white wine grape, was almost extinct before young Sicilian winemakers realized the potential for a dry white. The wines are creamy with tropical fruit. Carricante, sometimes called Lucido, can be super floral or citrus-driven on the nose but is a bone-dry white with a seaside note that is hard to pin down. The reds of the island are numerous, but the three most popular are generally considered Nero d’Avola, Frappato, and Perricone.
Sicily boasts a rich viticultural heritage with over 65 indigenous grape varieties. In this Grape Escape, we’ll explore some of the most beloved. The island houses 23 DOCs (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) and 1 DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), legally defined styles of wine. The Sicilia DOC is very flexible, allowing much of the island’s wine to be labeled as DOC. Maybe that is the Mafia’s influence… I couldn’t tell you.
My job is amazing. This week, I had lunch with Guy Stout, the second Master Sommelier in Texas and the owner of Stout Family Wines. We sat at a sunlit table in the elegant dining room of 61 Osteria in downtown Fort Worth, sipping through his exquisite wines over lunch. (Highly recommend it! Arancini might just be my new favorite appetizer downtown.)
Guy Stout boasts over 30 years of experience working in wine sales for various distributors. His knowledge of wine is unparalleled, and his personality is lively and engaging. It seems he knows someone in every room and has a ready smile and laugh for each of them. Stout initiated his wine brand, Stout Family Wines, in Texas in 1999 before achieving the Master Sommelier title in 2005. Following a decade of less-than-stellar vintages in Texas Stout was ready to move on. According to him, only three out of ten vintages are any good. Spurred by his son, Ian’s encouragement, he launched a wine brand in Napa Valley. The inaugural vintage of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon was in 2011.
The entire family is deeply rooted in the wine business. Stout had his sons work as apprentices in wineries during their summer breaks to provide them with real-world experience. In places like Rombauer. Today, his son Ian remains in the industry in Napa Valley, while his brothers pursue careers in corporate America. Gary and his wife, Kim, handle the day-to-day operations of the business from Houston, partnering with winemaker Tom Rinaldi. Rinaldi, the winemaker behind Duckhorn wines for over twenty years, brings a wealth of experience- he helped create ‘Napa Sauvignon Blanc’ as a category.
Leveraging shared history and longstanding relationships, Stout discreetly sources some of the finest fruit in Napa Valley. Silently. A few tons here, a few tons there. The wine labels always bear the ‘Napa Valley’ designation, affording Stout the flexibility to adjust his vineyard sources as availability fluctuates. Quantities are limited—only a few barrels of each are produced. The wines are then hand bottled by the Stout family and a group of close friends. You’ll never come across these wines on grocery shelves. Often, they aren’t available year-round as the winery sells out.
Sip through this trio of wines and relish Stout’s tribute to family and Napa Valley.
In March, I attended CAB Camp, but no, it had nothing to do with taxi cabs. It was an entire week dedicated to Cabernet Sauvignon wines grown in the beautiful Paso Robles, California. A group of forty wine buyers from all corners of the country gathered in Paso Robles to explore, taste, and compare Cabernet Sauvignons and other Bordeaux varietals grown in this region.
Nestled between Los Angeles and San Francisco, the grape-growing region around Paso Robles has historically been known for Rhone varietals and affordable wines. To be honest, I wasn’t expecting to be impressed, but Paso Robles had some surprises in store for me – and it wasn’t just the mesmerizing belly dancing at Daou.
Firstly, let’s address the pronunciation: it’s Paso “Robe-Les.” I know, it’s challenging for those of us who studied Spanish in high school, but that’s how they say it.
Paso Robles serves as a significant hub for cattle raising in California, and its name roughly translates to the “Passageway of Oaks.” As you’ll see on a tour of the Santa Margarita Ranch, this region is marked by majestic oak trees and landscapes reminiscent of the Texas Hill Country. The climate here has much in common with Texas – warm days, cattle ranches, and typically not enough rainfall, averaging just 14.8 inches per year. However, in an anomaly, Paso Robles experienced over 60 inches of rainfall by March 8, 2023. One noticeable difference is the daily temperature shift: it may reach 100 degrees during the day, but the nearby Pacific Ocean’s breeze cools things off every evening. (Someone, please bring some ocean breeze to DFW!)
During my time at CAB Camp, I had the honor of meeting legends of the wine world: Jerry Lohr and Gary Eberle. Gary Eberle is known for making California Syrah a ‘thing.’ He established the first Syrah vineyard in California, propagating it from cuttings off the M. Chapoutier property in the Rhone Valley. Unfortunately, I can’t find his wines in Texas.
Jerry Lohr, on the other hand, is the genius behind the J. Lohr wine brand. While producing a staggering 1.8 million cases of wine, J. Lohr remains a family-owned business. In the 1970s, Lohr ventured into Chardonnay production in Monterey County. Then, in the 1980s, he introduced Bordeaux varietals to Paso Robles, California. A deal with Hyatt in 1984 for 84,000 cases of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon changed everything, propelling J. Lohr and Paso Robles into the limelight. It’s astonishing how a single business deal can alter the fate of an entire region.
At a panel named ‘Cab is King,’ Jerry Lohr and Gary Eberle engaged in playful banter. Lohr believes his wines are underpriced, while Eberle contends that his are overpriced. Most of their wines are priced below $50, which is a common trait in this region. Lohr is correct in stating that Paso Robles wines are generally underpriced; they consistently overdeliver, which is one of the highest compliments one can bestow upon a wine.
You might come across the term ‘fruit bomb’ when discussing wines from the region. While some wines may fit this description, I believe many exhibit more balance, especially those crafted by quality producers. Paso Robles Cabernets tend to be rich, robust, and fruit-forward, yet they retain the structure needed to maintain this style. We even had the pleasure of opening a bottle from 1989 with Gary Eberle, and it was still impressively enjoyable.
Are you thinking of going? (You really should!) Visit Calcarous; it’s a place of beauty and amazement. I’m very sad that they don’t currently distribute their wines in Texas. The views there are among the best in the region. Don’t forget to pack a picnic and stay a while. If you’re lucky, you might even meet the winemaker, Jason Joyce, who’s incredibly passionate about his craft. Please tell him that Michelle in Texas still has a strong desire for his wines.
Also, don’t miss Glunz Vineyards. Although the Glunz family owns a massive wine distribution company in Illinois, the family rule is that you can’t work for the family business for five years. Matt Glunz took this opportunity to start his own exquisite, albeit small, winery. I only wish his wines were available in our state. They have the most Old-World style I encountered during my time there.
Lastly, consider a visit to Hearst Ranch, located just across the street from Hearst Castle. It’s an experience everyone should have. Be sure to ask them about ‘Eyor’ – their Malbec block.
Did you know that Paso Robles is leading the way in regenerative farming?
I certainly didn’t.
Tablas Creek Vineyard became the first vineyard certified by the Regenerative Organic Alliance (ROA) in 2017. Massive companies like J. Lohr, Robert Hall, and San Simeon are wholeheartedly embracing this concept. Due to the resources these corporations possess, they can invest in experiments and research.
Regenerative farming was new to me. I’m familiar with biodynamics and organics, but what exactly is regenerative farming, and how does it compare to sustainable and organic farming? And biodynamic farming? But first, what is sustainable farming?
I entered the panel discussion by J. Lohr and Robert Hall with many questions.
Sustainable
Sustainable viticulture encompasses a wide range of practices, all aimed at sustaining the land and local economy. In essence, it involves maintaining the same land for farming and making a living. This approach includes monitoring soil health and applying fertilizers.
Organics
Organic viticulture focuses on promoting healthy soil and vines while adhering to strict rules: no genetically modified organisms, synthetic chemicals, herbicides, easily soluble mineral fertilizers, and more. It also restricts sulphite content compared to non-certified wines. Practices include nurturing ground cover, cultivating nitrogen-fixing plants, and implementing manual and natural techniques for pest and weed control. These practices often involve planting cover crops.
Biodynamics
Biodynamics, rooted in the work of Austrian philosopher Rudolph Steiner, is a holistic farming practice. It divides winemaking and viticultural tasks based on a special biodynamic calendar. Steiner’s focus on fertilization during lunar cycles often involves practices like burying cow horns filled with dung by moonlight. While some practitioners take this to the extreme, others focus on holistic farming, including lunar influences.
Okay, but…
So, clearly, organics are better for the environment than just ‘sustainable’ farming. Biodynamics are… unique. But what about regenerative farming?
Regenerative
The Noble Research Institute defines regenerative agriculture as “the process of restoring degraded soils using practices based on ecological principles.” It entails looking at the entire ecosystem under the vineyard’s care, encompassing people, land, animals, insects, and soil. It’s about taking care of every detail. Farmers are tasked with land restoration, preserving topsoil by avoiding tilling, planting cover crops (especially during vine dormancy), which not only aerate the soil but also absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, benefiting the entire ecosystem. Even simple actions like planting mustard plants between vine rows can contribute to combating climate change.
Benefits of regenerative farming include increased soil organic matter and biodiversity, healthier and more drought- and flood-resilient soil, reduced use of chemical inputs and subsequent pollution, cleaner air and water, enhanced wildlife habitat, and carbon capture in the soil to combat climate variability. According to research by the Regenerative Organic Alliance, a mere 3% cost increase resulted in a 10% increase in vineyard output. It’s a win-win, both for business and the planet.
Tiny wineries already do a lot of this…
If you’ve ever visited wine country during the off-season, much of this might sound familiar. Quality vineyards tend to practice a combination of organic and biodynamic methods, often allowing mustard to grow between rows. However, the significance lies in large corporations making these changes. While J. Lohr isn’t currently certified, they are actively exploring how to convert their 4,000+ acres – and these changes from a company that dominates a wine region can make a massive difference. Paso Robles is at the forefront of land stewardship.
I’ve been in the industry for ten years, and it’s incredible to witness the transformations. Just four years ago, it was considered radical to ask wineries questions about their workforce, such as their origins, seasonal nature, and wages. Now, I sat through a panel where being certified with the ‘Regenerative Organic Alliance’ requires proving that their minimum wage is $21 per hour – considered a ‘living wage’ in California. This shift reflects a higher standard set by society on companies.
Check out these Paso Robles wines, where all these vineyards are dedicated to regenerative farming.
Dilek Canner, a Master of Wine and the force behind the Dallas Wine Education Center and Blind Bishop in Dallas, Texas, is someone I’m always thrilled to learn from. I’ve had the pleasure of taking my WSET 2 & 3 courses with her and have even taught a few classes for the Dallas Wine Education Center. Her teaching style, refreshingly devoid of pretentiousness, aligns perfectly with her philosophy that wine should never be overly intimidating.
Now, she did make quite the bold claim during the seminar – that the Master of Wine exam is a breeze. She inists that is is all about following directions.
The seminar’s focus was a fascinating exploration of the tasting notes required for those pursuing the Wine and Spirits Educational Trust (WSET) courses compared to the standards for Master of Wine candidates. With about half of our class not engaged in WSET tasting but exploring alternative paths of wine education, Dilek simplified the comparison for us.
WSET
– Describe the wine accurately
– Offer brief conclusions about its source & quality
MW
Utilize wine descriptions and evaluations to draw informed conclusions
– Formulate mini-conclusions supported by concrete evidence derived from the glass
– Aim for a comprehensive assessment, including Variety, Origin, Style, Quality, Maturity, Vintage, Commercial Potential, and Market Insights
It’s evident that the MW standards demand significantly more, which partially explains why there are only 418 Masters of Wine globally.
Tasting as an MW revolves around meticulously assembling evidence to substantiate every single conclusion. For someone like me, whose tasting often leans on intuition, this can be quite challenging. I might taste a wine and confidently declare it’s Italian, probably Sangiovese. However, when it comes to composing a tasting note for WSET or MW, I must deconstruct the ‘why.’ MW insists that I prove my point.
So here’s the deal: the wine is red, displaying a garnet rim, high acidity, high tannins, and a medium body. I detect a prominent cherry aroma. This initially narrows down the possibilities to Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, or Tempranillo. Yet, as I scrutinize the tannins, I discern they lack the aggressiveness typical of Nebbiolo. Upon a more profound inhalation, notes of tomato leaf, leather, and a hint of florals emerge, effectively ruling out Tempranillo. Each element must be substantiated beyond any reasonable doubt.
I engage in lateral tastings and categorize wines into clusters. I group flavors systematically. If, for instance, I encounter roses and tropical fruit notes in a white wine, I’m inclined to think Gewürztraminer, unless the acidity is remarkably high. However, once I detect those floral nuances, my list of potential varietals shrinks to Gewürztraminer, Torrontes, or Muscat, generally speaking.
Dilek Canner highlighted some of the most common tasting pitfalls, such as ignoring laterals. If you’re certain, why are you? Disproving those lateral possibilities is crucial. Another common error is jotting down everything you know about a specific wine – but that’s not the task at hand. You’re tasked with crafting a tasting note exclusively based on the wine before you.
I’m going to go pop a bottle of wine and uncover more lateral avenues.
Tasting Track:
Critical vs. Technical Tasting
Presented by Elaine Chukan Brown and Christy Frank
At the “Critical Versus Technical Tasting” session, we delved into the fascinating world of wine tasting, with a keen focus on understanding the right approach for different situations.
Elaine Chukan Brown, an accomplished writer, speaker, and educator specializing in wine, empowerment, and social justice, graced the stage. She’s not only a James Beard Award winner for her exceptional wine writing but also serves as an advisor to the Women in Wine and Spirits Awards in China, contributing her valuable insights to numerous magazines and textbooks.
Then there’s Jamie Goode, based in London, a wine writer, critic, and judge, armed with a PhD in plant biology. He’s a regular columnist for the UK national newspaper The Sunday Express and a contributor to several prestigious publications.
Tasting Critically
When it comes to tasting wine, the context matters—a lot. Whether you’re wearing the hat of a competition judge, a wine critic, a restaurant wine buyer, or simply an enthusiast savoring a glass, each role demands a unique perspective. Judges, for example, must meticulously align their evaluations with the competition’s specific criteria, setting aside personal preferences. In contrast, restaurant wine buyers scrutinize wines based on their compatibility with the restaurant’s concept, price point, and overall wine list. For instance, an outstanding wine may not fit the restaurant’s Italian-themed list, making it an unsuitable choice. Wine critics, on the other hand, are tasked not only with assigning scores but also with comparing wines within their respective categories. In essence, a Barefoot Merlot isn’t weighed against a Chateau Pomerol; instead, they aim to achieve different goals despite both being wines.
Now, it’s not uncommon to find sommeliers critiquing wine critics. Still, Elaine Chukan Brown emphasized the importance of acknowledging and respecting their unique knowledge. Critics enjoy the privilege of consistently tasting top-tier wines across different vintages, which ultimately enriches the wine world.
Key Takeaway
My favorite take-away from this session was: ‘Your encounter with the wine is subjective, but the discussion and communication is objective.’
Our discussion revolved around the concept of inter-subjective judgment, where individuals collectively assess wines based on shared standards and vocabulary. In the wine community, we have established definitions for terms like acidity, flaws, balance, and harmony, much like how EOD is universally understood as “end of day” or 5 p.m. in the business world.
Remember, wine enjoyment is inherently subjective—your love for Moscato might not be shared by someone who prefers it solely with dessert. However, for effective communication, we rely on a shared vocabulary. Objectively, we can describe Moscato as sweet and Cabernet as tannic. Neither is better; these are simply descriptive terms that help convey wine characteristics effectively.
Tasting Technically
Our focus on technical tasting primarily centered around blind tasting and refining our approach. Before diving into blind tasting, I found Elaine Chukan Brown’s advice particularly valuable. She emphasized the importance of self-evaluation beforehand. Factors like toothpaste residue on your palate, tasting wine as the first sip of the day, or dealing with a dry mouth can significantly impact how you perceive wine. Recognizing and acknowledging these imperfections is key to a more objective evaluation.
Jamie Goode challenged us to delay judgment for as long as possible during blind tasting. It’s remarkably easy to make snap judgments based on appearances or initial aromas. Blind tasting should be approached with the precision of a math proof, continuously asking “why?” The vocabulary we use to describe wines plays a crucial role in inter-subjective judgment, enabling effective communication and shared understanding.
Elaine Chukan Brown and Jamie Goode concluded by stressing the significance of precise and accurate communication among sommeliers. Their intriguing challenge to the audience was this: Can we describe a wine so precisely that others can identify it from a lineup? Achieving this level of precision, they stated, would mark excellence in the craft of a sommelier. I think I might start a game of ‘Blind Battleship’ for my wine club and tasting group.