Grape Escape: Argentina

Malbec – inky pink, purple wine with deep chocolate and fruit aromatics. A wine that can be made cheaply for a box or jug or with exquisite care. I honestly believe that Malbec may be the most misunderstood grape. Argentina’s history of making cheap, jug wine due to economic factors haunts them to this day.

Factoids

• Argentines consume 12 gallons of wine per resident per year.
• The 5th largest producer of wine in the world.
• They consume 90% of their own wine.
• Mendoza, the main growing area in Argentina, is 72 times larger than Napa Valley, about a third of the size of the state of California.

The spooky label above comes from Catena Zapata’s Argentino – a 100% Malbec made in the San Rafael district in the center of Mendoza. The wine is the finest made by Catena Zapata and it pays homage to the history of the Malbec grape.

The Story Behind the Label

Eleanor of Aquitaine represents the birth of Malbec. She is a strong, Old-World presence, lingering at the bridge in Cahors, where Malbec came into its own. Next, the Immigrant symbolizes the movement to the New World and the unknown explorers and adventurers who connected Europe with the Americas. Phylloxera personifies the death of Malbec in the Old World, which enabled its rebirth in the new. Finally, there is Bodega Catena Zapata, represented by Adrianna Catena, who depicts birth, earth, and motherhood, sharing the riches of the New World. Today, the Catena family’s fourth generation leads the high-altitude renaissance in Argentina.

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Origin Story

Argentina was a Spanish discovery in the 6th century leading to vines being planted there in 1577. Everywhere the Spanish went, the Catholic Church went, and thus vines for communion. Malbec didn’t make its way there until Argentina declared their independence from Spain in 1816. Argentina encouraged French immigration as an independent nation. The incoming French brought grape vines from home, like Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec.

Phylloxera

Phylloxera, the small louse that eats the roots of grape vines, invaded France in 1860. This louse attacks the roots of vines, destroying vineyards within a few years. French winemakers fled France, many to Argentina. These winemakers were happy to find French varietals thriving in South America where phylloxera never thrived. It hates sandy soils, which abound in Argentina.

Instability is Always Bad for Wine

Argentina was politically and economically unstable during the late 1970s through the 1990s. This instability made quality winemaking unprofitable. Farmers struggling to make ends meet ripped out lower yielding vines despite the quality wines they produced. Vineyards were replanted to food crops or replaced with high producing, low-quality vines. In 1989 inflation hit 12,000% (that is NOT a typo). The only way to scrape by was to make lots of wine. The survival of vineyards hinged on Argentina producing as much jug wine as possible.

More Change for Argentina

Significant reforms by the Argentine government in the 1990s led to a revamped banking system and a more stable currency. Although the economy still ebbs and flows, the federal government has encouraged the growth of viticulture. Even the devaluation of the Argentine peso in 2002 helped wineries, allowing them to lower production costs while already on the road to increasing quality.

Time to Drink?

Argentina is the 5th largest producer of wine in the world; even so, they consume 90% of their own production! Here are some gems that have slipped out for us to enjoy.

Similar Sips: Rombauer Chardonnay

Let’s talk about Rombauer Chardonnay, one of the most beloved wines across the nation, known for “celebrating the joy of wine.” They even print it onto their corks. The tagline originated from the founder’s aunt, Irma Rombauer, who penned the internationally renowned cookbook, “The Joy of Cooking.” I think we all have a copy floating around our house. Rombauer Vineyards sprouted its first vines in 1980 and released their inaugural Chardonnay in 1984, just two years after Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay made its market debut. Rombauer and Kendall-Jackson made a lasting impression on the world by shaping the very style that would define California Chardonnay for decades. Today, Rombauer Vineyards crafts approximately 175,000 cases of this celebrated Chardonnay annually.

‘The Joy of Wine’

I wholeheartedly concur with this sentiment, but I’d hate to see wine enthusiasts confined to the Rombauer rut. Life is far too short to limit our celebrations to a single brand. While Rombauer’s Chardonnay is renowned for its buttery richness, it’s important to remember that Chardonnay is as versatile as clay in the hands of a winemaker. Their choices throughout the winemaking process significantly impact the final product. Depending on factors such as vineyard location, grape harvest timing, and post-harvest treatment, the wine’s characteristics vary widely. Buttery Chardonnay, for instance, typically undergoes malolactic fermentation, is aged in new oak barrels, and is subject to lees stirring.

Now, you might wonder, what’s all that jargon about?

Malolactic Fermentation

Malolactic fermentation, or MLF for short, is the process by which harsh malic acid turns into softer lactic acid. In simple terms, it transforms sharp, apple-like acidity into a smoother, milk-like one. Think of that brisk bite into a green apple; you won’t find it in a buttery Chardonnay, but you can in those that skip the malolactic fermentation. In the industry, we often abbreviate it to MLF or just “malo.” So if someone mentions that a wine goes through 100% malo and then ages in new French oak barrels, and you’re a fan of buttery Chardonnay, you’re likely to adore that wine.

Barrel Aging

Barrel aging is a common practice we’ve all seen, with towering stacks of wine barrels nestled in cellars worldwide. These barrels are charred on the inside and used to age wine. The charred interior serves as a filter, extracting undesirable flavors while infusing subtle notes of vanilla and caramel. American and French oak barrels exhibit distinct characteristics; American barrels impart hints of dill, coconut, and vanillin (imagine the aroma of baked goods in a grocery store), while French barrels offer more nuanced notes like vanilla, spice, and cream. The first year of aging is when the barrel has the most influence, and by year four, the wood’s impact is minimal. These barrels are often repurposed for furniture, decor, or sold to Scotch whiskey distilleries.

Battonage

Lees stirring, sometimes referred to as “battonage,” involves agitating the yeast that has settled at the bottom of the barrels during aging. The more contact the wine has with the yeast, the creamier its texture becomes. In blind tastings, sommeliers often detect notes of sourdough bread or Greek yogurt, with the wine’s body taking on a more substantial and creamy character.

So, if you or a fellow wine lover find yourselves frequently reaching for the blue and white-labeled Rombauer bottle, it’s time to try something new! These wines we’ve gathered are equally creamy and rich.  deserving of their own celebration.

Details:

If you are stuck at the grocery and need something in a pinch- try the Arsonist Chardonnay– an under $20 option. 

Cheers,

PS

If you just can’t resist Rombauer, we do have a special running for the rest of the year. A case of twelve bottles for $500 plus taxes- delivered to your door. Email us to set a delivery date.

Grape Escape: Bordeaux Basics

Bordeaux, a name synonymous with lavish indulgence in a glass, often proves intimidating to wine enthusiasts. Given its vast complexity, it’s completely understandable. With 53 appellations and 65 different wine styles, understanding Bordeaux depends greatly on knowledge of its’ sub-regions and chateaus. But I’m here to help.

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The Region
Situated 350 miles southwest of Paris along the Atlantic coastline in France. Bordeaux has been home to a thriving wine industry for hundreds of years with the port and easy access to rivers. These river divide the region neatly in two pieces with very different personalities.

The Right Bank
The Right Bank comprises twelve sub-regions, collectively referred to as the Libournais. The two most renowned among them are Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. The soils have a lot of clay, with a limestone surface which Merlot thrives on. The wines overall tend to be richer in fruit with lower acidity and tannins. Cabernet Franc gives structure to the lush Merlot. 

Pomerol is expensive. No bones about it. The top dog wine here is Chateau Petrus, whose bottles regularly sell for thousands of dollars. The wines are often referred to as ‘an iron fist in a velvet glove’; they are massive wines with silky smooth tannins. Saint-Émilion is a slightly larger region with a more approachable price point with high quality wines.

The Left Bank
Also known as the Medoc, the Left Bank encompasses nine subregions. Notable among these are Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien, and Margaux. Historically marshland, the Dutch filled this region with gravel during the 1600s. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc thrives here, resulting in wines with a robust structure and higher tannin levels.

If you are just starting to explore Bordeaux, start with Saint-Julien. The wines have a lot of dark chocolate and cherry- similar to Napa Cabernets. Margaux wines tend to be more floral with lots of rose petals and violets. Pauillac wines have a signature of dusty, cocoa powder and tannic structure. Saint-Estephe tends to be very structured, modern trends have lend to the addition of more Merlot in the blend making the wines approachable earlier. They tend to be based in Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc supported by the other Bordeaux varietals so don’t let the foreign names make you uneasy.

Grapes
Bordeaux wines are all about blends. Winemakers skillfully utilize the unique characteristics of different grapes to craft well-balanced wines and hedge against risks. Given Bordeaux’s coastal location, weather conditions can be unpredictable. The potential risk of crop damage due to hail or frosts is mitigated by having grapes that bloom and ripen at different times.

Trick: To remember the dominant grapes on the Left and Right banks of Bordeaux. Hold up your hands. Curve your left hand into a ‘C’ and make an ‘M’ with your right hand. Cabernet Sauvignon on the Left Bank, and Merlot dominates the Right Bank. 

Aged Bordeaux versus Young Bordeaux

There is no right or wrong way to enjoy your wine. You may love the spicy, chew and earthy character of younger Bordeaux. Or you may want your wine to mellow first.

Aged Bordeaux- over ten years old will be richer, with earthy, coffee-toffee notes. Fruits will take on a dried character (so instead of smelling like plums, the wine may have a prune note) and the tobacco, cedar note will become more prominent.

If you are trying to decide if you should age your wine or not- consider the price point and the classification level.

What the heck are classifications?

There are five systems in places currently that all cover different sets of chateau. The two most important for us are the 1855 and the Saint-Emilion classifications.

In 1855 France was hosting the World Fair and Napoleon III was king.The king wanted a system to determine and showcase the best wines, a ranking system. So, he tasked the Agricultural department, who turned to the Chamber of Commerce in Bordeaux for help. The Chamber, in a bit of a dilemma and keen not to offend anyone, simply took the existing price list and published it.

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Totals are :

• 5 Premiers Crus (First Growth)
• 14 Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growth)
• 14 Troisièmes Crus (Third Growth)
• 10 Quatrièmes Crus (Fourth Growth)
• 18 Cinquièmes Crus (Fifth Growth)

Surprisingly, these rankings have stood the test of time quite well, considering their unconventional, and rather unscientific origins. The idea was simple: the very best wines were ‘First Growths,’ followed by ‘Second Growths,’ and so on for a total of five quality levels. Given that the quality of Bordeaux wines is intricately tied to their location, their quality has only improved over time with new techniques and sciences being applied.

But remember,  you don’t need to drink First Growth wines to enjoy Bordeaux. There are wonderful chateaus established after 1855 that deserve to be appreciated, despite not having a historic rating. Often the wineries outside of the 1855 Medoc Classification are referred to as ‘Petit Chateau.’

As for Saint-Émilion, it wasn’t part of the initial 1855 Classification. In fact, it took matters into its own hands and established a classification in 1954. The Saint-Émilion classification undergoes a revision every ten years. However, any alterations to the list are met with extreme controversy and discussions since movement greatly affects wine prices and company valuations.

Wine Futures? En Primeur? What’s That?

The practice of purchasing wine for future enjoyment has been a fundamental aspect of Bordeaux’s market model since the 1700s. Back then, clients would sample a young wine, make a commitment to buy, and the chateau would age the wine before delivering it. Early buyers enjoyed a lower price for taking the risk before the wine matured. An iconic example is the 1982 ‘En Primeur’ purchase, where buyers acquired what many consider the best vintage from Bordeaux at significantly lower costs. Robert Parker’s early declaration of confidence in the quality of that vintage is what put him, and the rating system on the map.

Today, ‘En Primeur’ is a weeklong event in Bordeaux, featuring numerous Chateaus presenting their young wines to entice consumers, collectors, and retailers into investing in cases before the wines fully mature.

However, modern shifts in the world have seen many prominent Chateaus stepping back from En Primeur sales.

Second Labels

Many wineries may have a second, or even a third label. Personally it is one of my favorite way to shop. The first label is going to be the best of the best fruit- and priced accordingly. The second label is made by the same winemaker, with fruit grown the same way from the same vineyards, but often from younger vines. Prices maybe be half of the first label!

How do I Get Good Bordeaux?

You can dedicate time to research, or you can let us do the legwork and discover exceptional options for you. 

Similar Sips: Sea Smoke

Only poured at one public tasting a year, The World of Pinot Noir. No tasting room. Almost no presence in restaurants. Sea Smoke is elusive, mysterious and sexy.

The 105 acre winery is located along the Santa Ynez River in Santa Barbara County, California. The wines are grown biodynamically, and only estate fruit goes into the bottling. Sea Smoke produces four labels, totaling 13,000 cases for global supply. They produce a sparkling wine called Sea Spray, as well as two Pinot Noir (Southing and Ten) bottling and a Chardonnay. Southing is more delicate while the Ten is heavier and more brooding.

Sea Smoke produces four labels, amounting to a total of 13,000 cases for the global market. However, only a fraction of these cases reach retailers and restaurants, as their primary focus is on their mailing list. ‘The List’ is free to join and doesn’t require any purchases. Moreover, there’s no guarantee that you’ll be offered any wine, but it’s definitely worth a shot.

Unfortunately, I can’t get any of this beautiful wine for you. But I can offer you several wines that are similar, from neighboring vineyards and made by other winemakers with similar styles.

The following wines are from Satnta Barbara, like Sea Smoke, and share similar characteristics, influenced by the same ocean fog that lends Sea Smoke its name. Typically, mountains run parallel to the coastline, shielding inland valleys from the Pacific Ocean’s cooling winds, fog, and marine layer. However, in Santa Barbara County, the mountains closest to the coast run from East to West, perpendicular to the shore.  The ‘transverse’ mountain ranges, and the valleys between them act as funnels, channeling cold air, fog, and the marine layer. Consequently, Santa Barbara County houses one of the most southerly ‘cool climate’ wine regions in the Northern Hemisphere.

Select Your Sips Below

Explore the Similarities

Grape Escape: Sicily

Twenty-seven times smaller than the state of Texas, the island of Sicily is nestled between the Tyrrhenian and Mediterranean Seas.  As a wine region, it boasts the most acres under vine, surpassing Piedmont and Tuscany. With a winemaking tradition dating back over 6,000 years, preceding even the Greeks and Romans, it holds the title of the oldest winemaking tradition in Italy by over 3,000 years. Mythology claims it as the home of the grapevine, while history labels it the home of the Mafia. However, many wine lovers have never even heard of Sicilian wines.

Fun Facts:

• In the Iliad, Odysseus used the local Sicilian wine to intoxicate the Cyclops, enabling his crew’s escape. The boulders strewn along the coastline are supposedly the ones that the Cyclops hurled after the departing ship.
• Palermo’s Falcone-Borsellino Airport is named after the two anti-Mafia judges murdered in 1992.
• Pied frau is a term for ungrafted grapevines that thrive on the island.
• Mount Eta, is supposedly the home of Vulcan, the Roman god of fire and smithery.
• Mount Etna is three times larger than Mount Vesuvius.

Historical Roots:

Given Sicily’s status as an island situated off the coast of Italy and its richness in natural resources, it was a constant target for invasion. Greeks, Romans, Germans, Normans, Muslims, Vikings—the region was almost always at war until the unification of Italy in the late 19th century. Interestingly, the rise of the unified Italian state and sudden peace didn’t bring immediate prosperity to the island. The existing infrastructure couldn’t handle the attempts of the poor and unemployed to steal from the wealthy landowners’ agricultural endeavors that constituted much of the economy. Landowners, realizing the local police wouldn’t help, brought in their own police force, often made up of criminals. These groups, for a fee, would protect businesses and became known as Cosa Nostra, or the Mafia.

World War II was devastating for the island and the Mafia. During a visit to Sicily in May 1924, Mussolini, the prime minister, passed through Piana dei Greci, where he was received by mayor/Mafia boss Francesco Cuccia. Cuccia, expressing surprise at Mussolini’s police escort, whispered, “You are with me, you are under my protection. What do you need all these cops for?”. Mussolini rejected Cuccia’s offer of protection, and in return, Cuccia told the townspeople not to attend his rally, leaving Mussolini facing a nearly empty room. Once he came to power, he did everything in his power to wipe out the Mafia—killing thousands without trial.

With 18 airbases, Sicily was often bombed during the war, killing civilians, destroying properties, and vineyards. Viticulture had been centered on mass production, with much of the wine being exported to France and other regions of Italy to bulk up production and give weight to blends. As power centralized and rules governing wine production became stricter post-WWII, the viticultural economy of Sicily tanked. Marsala, which for centuries had supported the island, fell out of favor; the demand for cheap bulk wine decreased, and many vineyards were abandoned or pulled up in favor of other agricultural endeavors. Sicilian viticulture was reborn in the late 1990s and 2000s when growers like COS pushed for quality over quantity.

Today:

Today, the island has dedicated itself to quality winemaking. Over 34% of the vineyards are organic, and the island places great importance on sustainable agriculture. When you’re working on an island, it’s crucial not to ruin any portion of it. There are currently more white grapes planted than red, many of which are holdovers from the days when Marsala production dominated the viticultural landscape. Grillo, a white wine grape, was almost extinct before young Sicilian winemakers realized the potential for a dry white. The wines are creamy with tropical fruit. Carricante, sometimes called Lucido, can be super floral or citrus-driven on the nose but is a bone-dry white with a seaside note that is hard to pin down. The reds of the island are numerous, but the three most popular are generally considered Nero d’Avola, Frappato, and Perricone.

Sicily boasts a rich viticultural heritage with over 65 indigenous grape varieties. In this Grape Escape, we’ll explore some of the most beloved. The island houses 23 DOCs (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) and 1 DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), legally defined styles of wine. The Sicilia DOC is very flexible, allowing much of the island’s wine to be labeled as DOC. Maybe that is the Mafia’s influence… I couldn’t tell you.

What is Regenerative Agriculture?

Did you know that Paso Robles is leading the way in regenerative farming?

I certainly didn’t.

Tablas Creek Vineyard became the first vineyard certified by the Regenerative Organic Alliance (ROA) in 2017. Massive companies like J. Lohr, Robert Hall, and San Simeon are wholeheartedly embracing this concept. Due to the resources these corporations possess, they can invest in experiments and research.

Regenerative farming was new to me. I’m familiar with biodynamics and organics, but what exactly is regenerative farming, and how does it compare to sustainable and organic farming? And biodynamic farming? But first, what is sustainable farming?

I entered the panel discussion by J. Lohr and Robert Hall with many questions.

Sustainable

Sustainable viticulture encompasses a wide range of practices, all aimed at sustaining the land and local economy. In essence, it involves maintaining the same land for farming and making a living. This approach includes monitoring soil health and applying fertilizers.

Organics

Organic viticulture focuses on promoting healthy soil and vines while adhering to strict rules: no genetically modified organisms, synthetic chemicals, herbicides, easily soluble mineral fertilizers, and more. It also restricts sulphite content compared to non-certified wines. Practices include nurturing ground cover, cultivating nitrogen-fixing plants, and implementing manual and natural techniques for pest and weed control. These practices often involve planting cover crops.

Biodynamics

Biodynamics, rooted in the work of Austrian philosopher Rudolph Steiner, is a holistic farming practice. It divides winemaking and viticultural tasks based on a special biodynamic calendar. Steiner’s focus on fertilization during lunar cycles often involves practices like burying cow horns filled with dung by moonlight. While some practitioners take this to the extreme, others focus on holistic farming, including lunar influences.

Okay, but…

So, clearly, organics are better for the environment than just ‘sustainable’ farming. Biodynamics are… unique. But what about regenerative farming?

Regenerative

The Noble Research Institute defines regenerative agriculture as “the process of restoring degraded soils using practices based on ecological principles.” It entails looking at the entire ecosystem under the vineyard’s care, encompassing people, land, animals, insects, and soil. It’s about taking care of every detail. Farmers are tasked with land restoration, preserving topsoil by avoiding tilling, planting cover crops (especially during vine dormancy), which not only aerate the soil but also absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, benefiting the entire ecosystem. Even simple actions like planting mustard plants between vine rows can contribute to combating climate change.

Benefits of regenerative farming include increased soil organic matter and biodiversity, healthier and more drought- and flood-resilient soil, reduced use of chemical inputs and subsequent pollution, cleaner air and water, enhanced wildlife habitat, and carbon capture in the soil to combat climate variability. According to research by the Regenerative Organic Alliance, a mere 3% cost increase resulted in a 10% increase in vineyard output. It’s a win-win, both for business and the planet.

Tiny wineries already do a lot of this…

If you’ve ever visited wine country during the off-season, much of this might sound familiar. Quality vineyards tend to practice a combination of organic and biodynamic methods, often allowing mustard to grow between rows. However, the significance lies in large corporations making these changes. While J. Lohr isn’t currently certified, they are actively exploring how to convert their 4,000+ acres – and these changes from a company that dominates a wine region can make a massive difference. Paso Robles is at the forefront of land stewardship.

I’ve been in the industry for ten years, and it’s incredible to witness the transformations. Just four years ago, it was considered radical to ask wineries questions about their workforce, such as their origins, seasonal nature, and wages. Now, I sat through a panel where being certified with the ‘Regenerative Organic Alliance’ requires proving that their minimum wage is $21 per hour – considered a ‘living wage’ in California. This shift reflects a higher standard set by society on companies.

Check out these Paso Robles wines, where all these vineyards are dedicated to regenerative farming.

Cheers,

Tasting Track:

WSET versus MW

Presented by Dilek Canner, MW

Dilek Canner, a Master of Wine and the force behind the Dallas Wine Education Center and Blind Bishop in Dallas, Texas, is someone I’m always thrilled to learn from. I’ve had the pleasure of taking my WSET 2 & 3 courses with her and have even taught a few classes for the Dallas Wine Education Center. Her teaching style, refreshingly devoid of pretentiousness, aligns perfectly with her philosophy that wine should never be overly intimidating.

Now, she did make quite the bold claim during the seminar – that the Master of Wine exam is a breeze. She inists that is is all about following directions. 

The seminar’s focus was a fascinating exploration of the tasting notes required for those pursuing the Wine and Spirits Educational Trust (WSET) courses compared to the standards for Master of Wine candidates. With about half of our class not engaged in WSET tasting but exploring alternative paths of wine education, Dilek simplified the comparison for us.

It’s evident that the MW standards demand significantly more, which partially explains why there are only 418 Masters of Wine globally.

Tasting as an MW revolves around meticulously assembling evidence to substantiate every single conclusion. For someone like me, whose tasting often leans on intuition, this can be quite challenging. I might taste a wine and confidently declare it’s Italian, probably Sangiovese. However, when it comes to composing a tasting note for WSET or MW, I must deconstruct the ‘why.’ MW insists that I prove my point.

So here’s the deal: the wine is red, displaying a garnet rim, high acidity, high tannins, and a medium body. I detect a prominent cherry aroma. This initially narrows down the possibilities to Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, or Tempranillo. Yet, as I scrutinize the tannins, I discern they lack the aggressiveness typical of Nebbiolo. Upon a more profound inhalation, notes of tomato leaf, leather, and a hint of florals emerge, effectively ruling out Tempranillo. Each element must be substantiated beyond any reasonable doubt.

I engage in lateral tastings and categorize wines into clusters. I group flavors systematically. If, for instance, I encounter roses and tropical fruit notes in a white wine, I’m inclined to think Gewürztraminer, unless the acidity is remarkably high. However, once I detect those floral nuances, my list of potential varietals shrinks to Gewürztraminer, Torrontes, or Muscat, generally speaking.

Dilek Canner highlighted some of the most common tasting pitfalls, such as ignoring laterals. If you’re certain, why are you? Disproving those lateral possibilities is crucial. Another common error is jotting down everything you know about a specific wine – but that’s not the task at hand. You’re tasked with crafting a tasting note exclusively based on the wine before you.

I’m going to go pop a bottle of wine and uncover more lateral avenues.