Similar Sips: Sea Smoke

Only poured at one public tasting a year, The World of Pinot Noir. No tasting room. Almost no presence in restaurants. Sea Smoke is elusive, mysterious and sexy.

The 105 acre winery is located along the Santa Ynez River in Santa Barbara County, California. The wines are grown biodynamically, and only estate fruit goes into the bottling. Sea Smoke produces four labels, totaling 13,000 cases for global supply. They produce a sparkling wine called Sea Spray, as well as two Pinot Noir (Southing and Ten) bottling and a Chardonnay. Southing is more delicate while the Ten is heavier and more brooding.

Sea Smoke produces four labels, amounting to a total of 13,000 cases for the global market. However, only a fraction of these cases reach retailers and restaurants, as their primary focus is on their mailing list. ‘The List’ is free to join and doesn’t require any purchases. Moreover, there’s no guarantee that you’ll be offered any wine, but it’s definitely worth a shot.

Unfortunately, I can’t get any of this beautiful wine for you. But I can offer you several wines that are similar, from neighboring vineyards and made by other winemakers with similar styles.

The following wines are from Satnta Barbara, like Sea Smoke, and share similar characteristics, influenced by the same ocean fog that lends Sea Smoke its name. Typically, mountains run parallel to the coastline, shielding inland valleys from the Pacific Ocean’s cooling winds, fog, and marine layer. However, in Santa Barbara County, the mountains closest to the coast run from East to West, perpendicular to the shore.  The ‘transverse’ mountain ranges, and the valleys between them act as funnels, channeling cold air, fog, and the marine layer. Consequently, Santa Barbara County houses one of the most southerly ‘cool climate’ wine regions in the Northern Hemisphere.

Select Your Sips Below

Explore the Similarities

Grape Escape: Sicily

Twenty-seven times smaller than the state of Texas, the island of Sicily is nestled between the Tyrrhenian and Mediterranean Seas.  As a wine region, it boasts the most acres under vine, surpassing Piedmont and Tuscany. With a winemaking tradition dating back over 6,000 years, preceding even the Greeks and Romans, it holds the title of the oldest winemaking tradition in Italy by over 3,000 years. Mythology claims it as the home of the grapevine, while history labels it the home of the Mafia. However, many wine lovers have never even heard of Sicilian wines.

Fun Facts:

• In the Iliad, Odysseus used the local Sicilian wine to intoxicate the Cyclops, enabling his crew’s escape. The boulders strewn along the coastline are supposedly the ones that the Cyclops hurled after the departing ship.
• Palermo’s Falcone-Borsellino Airport is named after the two anti-Mafia judges murdered in 1992.
• Pied frau is a term for ungrafted grapevines that thrive on the island.
• Mount Eta, is supposedly the home of Vulcan, the Roman god of fire and smithery.
• Mount Etna is three times larger than Mount Vesuvius.

Historical Roots:

Given Sicily’s status as an island situated off the coast of Italy and its richness in natural resources, it was a constant target for invasion. Greeks, Romans, Germans, Normans, Muslims, Vikings—the region was almost always at war until the unification of Italy in the late 19th century. Interestingly, the rise of the unified Italian state and sudden peace didn’t bring immediate prosperity to the island. The existing infrastructure couldn’t handle the attempts of the poor and unemployed to steal from the wealthy landowners’ agricultural endeavors that constituted much of the economy. Landowners, realizing the local police wouldn’t help, brought in their own police force, often made up of criminals. These groups, for a fee, would protect businesses and became known as Cosa Nostra, or the Mafia.

World War II was devastating for the island and the Mafia. During a visit to Sicily in May 1924, Mussolini, the prime minister, passed through Piana dei Greci, where he was received by mayor/Mafia boss Francesco Cuccia. Cuccia, expressing surprise at Mussolini’s police escort, whispered, “You are with me, you are under my protection. What do you need all these cops for?”. Mussolini rejected Cuccia’s offer of protection, and in return, Cuccia told the townspeople not to attend his rally, leaving Mussolini facing a nearly empty room. Once he came to power, he did everything in his power to wipe out the Mafia—killing thousands without trial.

With 18 airbases, Sicily was often bombed during the war, killing civilians, destroying properties, and vineyards. Viticulture had been centered on mass production, with much of the wine being exported to France and other regions of Italy to bulk up production and give weight to blends. As power centralized and rules governing wine production became stricter post-WWII, the viticultural economy of Sicily tanked. Marsala, which for centuries had supported the island, fell out of favor; the demand for cheap bulk wine decreased, and many vineyards were abandoned or pulled up in favor of other agricultural endeavors. Sicilian viticulture was reborn in the late 1990s and 2000s when growers like COS pushed for quality over quantity.

Today:

Today, the island has dedicated itself to quality winemaking. Over 34% of the vineyards are organic, and the island places great importance on sustainable agriculture. When you’re working on an island, it’s crucial not to ruin any portion of it. There are currently more white grapes planted than red, many of which are holdovers from the days when Marsala production dominated the viticultural landscape. Grillo, a white wine grape, was almost extinct before young Sicilian winemakers realized the potential for a dry white. The wines are creamy with tropical fruit. Carricante, sometimes called Lucido, can be super floral or citrus-driven on the nose but is a bone-dry white with a seaside note that is hard to pin down. The reds of the island are numerous, but the three most popular are generally considered Nero d’Avola, Frappato, and Perricone.

Sicily boasts a rich viticultural heritage with over 65 indigenous grape varieties. In this Grape Escape, we’ll explore some of the most beloved. The island houses 23 DOCs (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) and 1 DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), legally defined styles of wine. The Sicilia DOC is very flexible, allowing much of the island’s wine to be labeled as DOC. Maybe that is the Mafia’s influence… I couldn’t tell you.

What is Regenerative Agriculture?

Did you know that Paso Robles is leading the way in regenerative farming?

I certainly didn’t.

Tablas Creek Vineyard became the first vineyard certified by the Regenerative Organic Alliance (ROA) in 2017. Massive companies like J. Lohr, Robert Hall, and San Simeon are wholeheartedly embracing this concept. Due to the resources these corporations possess, they can invest in experiments and research.

Regenerative farming was new to me. I’m familiar with biodynamics and organics, but what exactly is regenerative farming, and how does it compare to sustainable and organic farming? And biodynamic farming? But first, what is sustainable farming?

I entered the panel discussion by J. Lohr and Robert Hall with many questions.

Sustainable

Sustainable viticulture encompasses a wide range of practices, all aimed at sustaining the land and local economy. In essence, it involves maintaining the same land for farming and making a living. This approach includes monitoring soil health and applying fertilizers.

Organics

Organic viticulture focuses on promoting healthy soil and vines while adhering to strict rules: no genetically modified organisms, synthetic chemicals, herbicides, easily soluble mineral fertilizers, and more. It also restricts sulphite content compared to non-certified wines. Practices include nurturing ground cover, cultivating nitrogen-fixing plants, and implementing manual and natural techniques for pest and weed control. These practices often involve planting cover crops.

Biodynamics

Biodynamics, rooted in the work of Austrian philosopher Rudolph Steiner, is a holistic farming practice. It divides winemaking and viticultural tasks based on a special biodynamic calendar. Steiner’s focus on fertilization during lunar cycles often involves practices like burying cow horns filled with dung by moonlight. While some practitioners take this to the extreme, others focus on holistic farming, including lunar influences.

Okay, but…

So, clearly, organics are better for the environment than just ‘sustainable’ farming. Biodynamics are… unique. But what about regenerative farming?

Regenerative

The Noble Research Institute defines regenerative agriculture as “the process of restoring degraded soils using practices based on ecological principles.” It entails looking at the entire ecosystem under the vineyard’s care, encompassing people, land, animals, insects, and soil. It’s about taking care of every detail. Farmers are tasked with land restoration, preserving topsoil by avoiding tilling, planting cover crops (especially during vine dormancy), which not only aerate the soil but also absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, benefiting the entire ecosystem. Even simple actions like planting mustard plants between vine rows can contribute to combating climate change.

Benefits of regenerative farming include increased soil organic matter and biodiversity, healthier and more drought- and flood-resilient soil, reduced use of chemical inputs and subsequent pollution, cleaner air and water, enhanced wildlife habitat, and carbon capture in the soil to combat climate variability. According to research by the Regenerative Organic Alliance, a mere 3% cost increase resulted in a 10% increase in vineyard output. It’s a win-win, both for business and the planet.

Tiny wineries already do a lot of this…

If you’ve ever visited wine country during the off-season, much of this might sound familiar. Quality vineyards tend to practice a combination of organic and biodynamic methods, often allowing mustard to grow between rows. However, the significance lies in large corporations making these changes. While J. Lohr isn’t currently certified, they are actively exploring how to convert their 4,000+ acres – and these changes from a company that dominates a wine region can make a massive difference. Paso Robles is at the forefront of land stewardship.

I’ve been in the industry for ten years, and it’s incredible to witness the transformations. Just four years ago, it was considered radical to ask wineries questions about their workforce, such as their origins, seasonal nature, and wages. Now, I sat through a panel where being certified with the ‘Regenerative Organic Alliance’ requires proving that their minimum wage is $21 per hour – considered a ‘living wage’ in California. This shift reflects a higher standard set by society on companies.

Check out these Paso Robles wines, where all these vineyards are dedicated to regenerative farming.

Cheers,

Tasting Track:

WSET versus MW

Presented by Dilek Canner, MW

Dilek Canner, a Master of Wine and the force behind the Dallas Wine Education Center and Blind Bishop in Dallas, Texas, is someone I’m always thrilled to learn from. I’ve had the pleasure of taking my WSET 2 & 3 courses with her and have even taught a few classes for the Dallas Wine Education Center. Her teaching style, refreshingly devoid of pretentiousness, aligns perfectly with her philosophy that wine should never be overly intimidating.

Now, she did make quite the bold claim during the seminar – that the Master of Wine exam is a breeze. She inists that is is all about following directions. 

The seminar’s focus was a fascinating exploration of the tasting notes required for those pursuing the Wine and Spirits Educational Trust (WSET) courses compared to the standards for Master of Wine candidates. With about half of our class not engaged in WSET tasting but exploring alternative paths of wine education, Dilek simplified the comparison for us.

It’s evident that the MW standards demand significantly more, which partially explains why there are only 418 Masters of Wine globally.

Tasting as an MW revolves around meticulously assembling evidence to substantiate every single conclusion. For someone like me, whose tasting often leans on intuition, this can be quite challenging. I might taste a wine and confidently declare it’s Italian, probably Sangiovese. However, when it comes to composing a tasting note for WSET or MW, I must deconstruct the ‘why.’ MW insists that I prove my point.

So here’s the deal: the wine is red, displaying a garnet rim, high acidity, high tannins, and a medium body. I detect a prominent cherry aroma. This initially narrows down the possibilities to Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, or Tempranillo. Yet, as I scrutinize the tannins, I discern they lack the aggressiveness typical of Nebbiolo. Upon a more profound inhalation, notes of tomato leaf, leather, and a hint of florals emerge, effectively ruling out Tempranillo. Each element must be substantiated beyond any reasonable doubt.

I engage in lateral tastings and categorize wines into clusters. I group flavors systematically. If, for instance, I encounter roses and tropical fruit notes in a white wine, I’m inclined to think Gewürztraminer, unless the acidity is remarkably high. However, once I detect those floral nuances, my list of potential varietals shrinks to Gewürztraminer, Torrontes, or Muscat, generally speaking.

Dilek Canner highlighted some of the most common tasting pitfalls, such as ignoring laterals. If you’re certain, why are you? Disproving those lateral possibilities is crucial. Another common error is jotting down everything you know about a specific wine – but that’s not the task at hand. You’re tasked with crafting a tasting note exclusively based on the wine before you.

I’m going to go pop a bottle of wine and uncover more lateral avenues.

Tasting Track:

Critical vs. Technical Tasting

Presented by Elaine Chukan Brown and Christy Frank

At the “Critical Versus Technical Tasting” session, we delved into the fascinating world of wine tasting, with a keen focus on understanding the right approach for different situations.

Elaine Chukan Brown, an accomplished writer, speaker, and educator specializing in wine, empowerment, and social justice, graced the stage. She’s not only a James Beard Award winner for her exceptional wine writing but also serves as an advisor to the Women in Wine and Spirits Awards in China, contributing her valuable insights to numerous magazines and textbooks.

Then there’s Jamie Goode, based in London, a wine writer, critic, and judge, armed with a PhD in plant biology. He’s a regular columnist for the UK national newspaper The Sunday Express and a contributor to several prestigious publications.

Tasting Critically

When it comes to tasting wine, the context matters—a lot. Whether you’re wearing the hat of a competition judge, a wine critic, a restaurant wine buyer, or simply an enthusiast savoring a glass, each role demands a unique perspective. Judges, for example, must meticulously align their evaluations with the competition’s specific criteria, setting aside personal preferences. In contrast, restaurant wine buyers scrutinize wines based on their compatibility with the restaurant’s concept, price point, and overall wine list. For instance, an outstanding wine may not fit the restaurant’s Italian-themed list, making it an unsuitable choice. Wine critics, on the other hand, are tasked not only with assigning scores but also with comparing wines within their respective categories. In essence, a Barefoot Merlot isn’t weighed against a Chateau Pomerol; instead, they aim to achieve different goals despite both being wines.

Now, it’s not uncommon to find sommeliers critiquing wine critics. Still, Elaine Chukan Brown emphasized the importance of acknowledging and respecting their unique knowledge. Critics enjoy the privilege of consistently tasting top-tier wines across different vintages, which ultimately enriches the wine world.

Key Takeaway

My favorite take-away from this session was: ‘Your encounter with the wine is subjective, but the discussion and communication is objective.’

Our discussion revolved around the concept of inter-subjective judgment, where individuals collectively assess wines based on shared standards and vocabulary. In the wine community, we have established definitions for terms like acidity, flaws, balance, and harmony, much like how EOD is universally understood as “end of day” or 5 p.m. in the business world. 

Remember, wine enjoyment is inherently subjective—your love for Moscato might not be shared by someone who prefers it solely with dessert. However, for effective communication, we rely on a shared vocabulary. Objectively, we can describe Moscato as sweet and Cabernet as tannic. Neither is better; these are simply descriptive terms that help convey wine characteristics effectively.

Tasting Technically

Our focus on technical tasting primarily centered around blind tasting and refining our approach. Before diving into blind tasting, I found Elaine Chukan Brown’s advice particularly valuable. She emphasized the importance of self-evaluation beforehand. Factors like toothpaste residue on your palate, tasting wine as the first sip of the day, or dealing with a dry mouth can significantly impact how you perceive wine. Recognizing and acknowledging these imperfections is key to a more objective evaluation.

Jamie Goode challenged us to delay judgment for as long as possible during blind tasting. It’s remarkably easy to make snap judgments based on appearances or initial aromas. Blind tasting should be approached with the precision of a math proof, continuously asking “why?” The vocabulary we use to describe wines plays a crucial role in inter-subjective judgment, enabling effective communication and shared understanding.

Elaine Chukan Brown and Jamie Goode concluded by stressing the significance of precise and accurate communication among sommeliers. Their intriguing challenge to the audience was this: Can we describe a wine so precisely that others can identify it from a lineup? Achieving this level of precision, they stated, would mark excellence in the craft of a sommelier. I think I might start a game of ‘Blind Battleship’ for my wine club and tasting group.